Saturday, April 26, 2014

The majestic Mt. Talinis

A view of Mt. Talinis from Santander, Cebu 
It started with a dream to test our adrenalin in an extreme adventure. After we set foot at the Osmena Peak, we set an eye for Mt. Talinis as it kept on inviting us each time we pass by Dumaguete City en route to Siquijor last year.

A quick look of Mt. Talinis:

                LLA: 1,903 MASL (meters above sea level)
                Days required: 2-3 days
                Specs: major climb; Difficulty: 6/9; Trail: class 2-4
                Significant features: twin falls, lakes, mossy forest, sulfuric stream

April 16, 2014---a midst the last minute work requirements to deliver and heaviest holy week passenger traffic, we are set to do our first major climb. At 2:00 p.m. we were already at the South Bus terminal queuing for our ride to Lilo-an, Santander, Cebu. The whole waiting lounge was overloaded with passengers eager to get on the bus but patiently withstanding the humidity of the place and the slow arrival of the buses plying our route. Finally, it's 4:00 p.m. and our bus arrived. We hopped in and find our seats 3 rows apart from each other. We felt rested although the trip was doubly long because we had to get through a number of processions from local parish churches that we passed by. 

After five hours of road trip, we arrived at Lilo-an port in Santander where a special trip to Dumaguete City of the fast craft awaited us. We grabbed a bite at the canteen because we forgot to take our lunch. The prices of the food items are bit expensive but affordable for budget travelers like us. 

As soon as we arrive Sibulan Pier, we took a jeepney (multicab) that took us to Dumagute City. It was past 9:00 in the evening and our stomachs are craving for some real meal. We got off at the public market and looked for some restos but at this time, everything was already closed so we took a pedicab and asked Manong driver to take us to a place where we can have something for dinner. He brought us to a local barbecue station across Asian College. Soon after we fill our empty stomachs, our local guide arrived to fetch us. We slept over at his place and agreed to make our ascent via Puhagan trail.

April 17, 2014 - Day 1

We hired a 'habal-habal' to take us to Brgy. Puhagan, Valencia, Negros Oriental. It was an hour of like roller coaster ride until we reach the PNOC muster point. The barangay hall of Puhagan is just nearby and so it was easy for us to locate and register before starting our climb.

PNOC Muster Point
9:30 a.m. - The beginning of our ascent was invigorating as the fresh foot trail and lush greens greeted our way. Right from the start, it was an all uphill trek until we reach the tip of the mountain range just over the PNOC.
My partner secured the locks of my backpack. 
 From here we can already see the tip of Mt. Talinis..it was far yet. We started panting and took stops to catch our breath, hydrated and moved on.

View from the top over PNOC.
 After an hour of trekking, we finally reached this short flat area of the mountain range, enough for us to gain our balance and managed to pose for this photo before we become totally haggard.

Thanks to 'Dondon' our local guide for making us our magic canes and for taking this photo.
 One captivating image that stopped us is this figure, a resemblance of the Mother and Child. It was the stalk of a giant fern which flourished around the area.

Closer look of the stalk of a giant fern that resembles 'Mother and Child'.
 Another wonderful piece we found in the middle of the thick forest is this famous medicinal tree called 'Kaninga'. This tree was known to cure so many ailments such as stomach upsets, headache, fatigue and many more. We noticed that the tree was already fallen but very alive. Its barks have been remarkably cut, some old, few are fresh - an indication that many have come to get a portion of this healing tree. Our guide was kind enough to cut a small bark for us to bring home. He too got some for himself. 
Kaninga bark. You can chew it to extract the juice or boil it down for a stronger concoction.
For us to reach the Karancho camp site, we had to make our way down through large, exposed roots and branches. Thick mulch covered most of the trail..you should watch your step because it was slippery and you can actually fall if stepped on unevenly.

Going down around 30 mins before the twin falls and Valencia dam.
We hit the first stop over exactly at 12:00 noon and we found some groups already taking their rest. Some took the Dauin trail while a few came from Apolong. It was good to feel the presence of people sharing our goal - to reach Mt. Talinis.

Rice cooked in a pot with firewood. 
Our packed lunch was composed of rice, dried fish, kalderetang kanding (for the men) and vegetables for me.
My partner in his extreme hunger :-)
We had eaten and drunk fresh, cold water and as we enjoy the stop, we came to know the guys we shared the first stop with. There's from Katkat Kagaw and Kamikaze of Dumaguete City. They are pros in mountaineering while we only banked on our own determination and will to finish the climb.

Energizer.
At 2:00 in the afternoon, we have reached the Karancho camp site. It is owned by an old lady 'Iya Yayang' who happened to be the aunt of our guide. From her place, we can see the tip of Mt. Talinis. It was covered with fog and all we could get was tremendous hope of getting on to it the next day.

Fogged summit of the main Mt. Talinis.
We set up our tent before it got dark, hanged our wet clothes and slipped on to warm ones. This relaxed our bodies and regained our strengths.

Our home away from home.
While my partner exchanged stories with our new friends and neighbors at the camp site, I sneaked in for a quick nap. (wink)
Outdoor hammock perfect for a tired body.
While the darkness sets in, I unpacked our bags and took a photo of our provisions aside from the main meals that our guide carried. These stuffs helped us get energized while we trek. Musts: chocolates and lots of chocolates, bread and spreads and coffee.

Meals on trail.
April 18, 2014 - Day 2

From the two of us, we came to this instant community. All warm presence, nature lovers, passionate to extreme adventure.

Tent city at Karancho.
For us, having met these bunch of people not only made us comfortable but also felt secured. They are the locales of Valencia, Negros Oriental who climbed each year as their devotion to the suffering of Jesus.

While making breakfast.
The night before, my partner caught fever and chills. Thanks to my first aid kit and magic haplas, the fever faded away before the morning sun breaks in. The assault to the summit was almost aborted. Yet, the power of the will and determination prevailed and we were set to go to the top and Nailig Lake.

Post fever.
Before every one rises, our guide was quick to prepare our breakfast and as early as 7:00 a.m., we were prepped for our next journey.

Stone table and the breakfast.
This is the real thing, we headed our way to the top. Indeed the most difficult trail I could imagine for now. We had to hold on to twigs, branches and roots..sometimes we had to climb over or crawl under large roots to make our way. Another thing that made it for us to move was the super wet and slippery foot trails. Here we slipped several times but we learned to be more watchful; otherwise, we will be hundred meters down.

Highlight of the climb.
After an hour of super steep climb, we reached the only platform - a flat stone wrapped with markings of those who have stepped on it.

The breath taking view from the tip.
We took a stop on this rock and pose once again. We were close to our goal and we forgot the long hours of trekking through the woods. Thanks to our rash guards, we didn't have to get bruised by sharp weeds and wild plants along the way.

Feeling motivated..close to the real thing.
We proceeded our way to Nailig Lake, the main crater of Mt. Talinis. Again, we had to make our way under huge branches and roots.

Test of leg and hip strengths.
Finally, we have reached our goal. The feeling was amazing..it was a taste of a bittersweet victory. We hugged and congratulated each other for winning this quite difficult test that involved our whole being. Big yehey! We spent more time here watching the fog covered the entire lake and at one glance would clear away. God's wonderful creation, so majestic, so peaceful and so amazing. We took our lunch here and had another hour and a half to go back to the camp site.

Nailig Lake.
Before reaching the camp site, our guide took us to this place called Kaipohan which comes from the word 'ipo' or sulfur . The trees have died down because of its emission in the area, the rocks in the stream also turned white. 
Kaipohan.
Another interesting sight to behold is this boiling water yet cold to feel. You can actually smell the sulfur exuding from it.

Cold boiling sulfuric water from the volcano.
Since it is a Good Friday, my partner asked me to take this photo of him commemorating the crucifixion of JC.

Remembering the crucifixion.
We reached Karancho camp site at 1:00 p.m. we took a quick rest, break camp, pack up and started our descent via Apolong trail, while the rest of those who went to Nailig stayed in the camp for another night. It was a long trek with 2 more steep uphills and downhills, longer trail through thick forests. Around 5:00 p.m., we already ran out of our chocolate bars and energy drink. All we had was water. Our legs started to complain and our pace gets slower and slower. This was the most trying part of our climb where we fought exhaustion and relied to the dictates of our minds that we could make it. We became strengths for each other, exchanging oxygen to keep us awake, holding each other's hand to support every step of the way. For us, it was a death-crossing trail. Finally, we have reached the first sign of civilization. True enough, we were late by an hour and a half from the standard trek but we were overwhelmed by our success that we have arrived safely without injury. 

Organic lettuce served for free from a kind locale.
Organic tomatoes..so crunchy.

My partner's scar from wild plants during his 1st fall.

My remembrance.
As we near the final exit of our climb at Brgy. Apolong, God-sent angels camping welcomed us with fresh organic lettuce and tomatoes which we grabbed and the Valencia PNP in their patrol car right at the beginning of the road leading to Poblacion. They offer us a ride down to the town proper while we waited for our guide to take us to Dumaguete City to stay for the night.

Completely drained physically, we took shelter at Vintage Inn, showered to the max and slept tight. We survived Mt. Talinis :-) 

April 19, 2014 - Day 3: Travel back to Cebu City